Monster Mountains

After a night in Bishkek it was time for a bush camping extravaganza, the best way to see and enjoy the wilds of beautiful Kyrgyzstan.  Our first night on the northern shores of Lake Issyk-Kul, the second largest alpine lake in the world, with the option to camp on the beach or a little further back in amongst the shelter of some trees.  Overland adventure turned beach holiday, swimming in the clear water looking up to the snowy mountains in the distance, bobbing around in an inflated truck inner tube and sitting in the sun on the sandy shores.

Smoked fish from Lake Issyk-Kul

Camping in amongst the trees

Lake Issyk Kul

Rogs

Tom relaxing with a beer

For something a bit different we pulled out fajita wraps we’d brought all the way from England and some treasured salsa we’d hidden away for a Mexican themed evening, complete with a selection of comedy moustaches.  Simon’s blending in far too perfectly with his colouring, others less so.  Not Mexican but with vodka costing no more than a couple of dollars we also cooked up some delicious Mars bar vodka.  The cream we thought we’d bought turned out to be sour cream so milk was substituted, desperate times, what a hard life.

Gary

Sue, delighted with her moustache

Simon's blending in far too well

Anita, the Italian plumber

Si, Em & Gary

Iain goes in for a tash

Iain

Jo-Ann 

Tom's monkey tattoo even got a moustache

And cab pet Ninja

The Mexicans

Every day feels like a Sunday when you’re driving around the lake.  We continued on the next day to Karakol where we shopped and stocked up for a couple of days away from the truck.  Two Russian monster trucks, the meaty Gaz 66, roared in and we loaded up our supplies.  Our destination for the next few days was Altyn Arashan.  Rather than camp as nights can be chilly and even snow occasionally at this time of year, we chose to stay at a mountain retreat with bags of character, a ramshackle refuge and simple accommodation.  The ride up to Altyn Arashan was exciting, steep and rocky with sheer drops, the trucks deftly negotiating each obstacle.  The road, at times, isn’t a road at all and there’s no way we could take the truck up there. Half way along we found a new friend, a young chap called Choi who is riding his 125cc scooter, yes scooter, from South Korea to Spain. Most people think he’s mad, we have to agree, but he was a lovely addition to the group for a day or so, mucking in with cook group and joining us for meals.

Beautiful sunrise over the lake

Some went for a morning skinny dip - no photos though!

Pretty Kyrgyz houses

Karakol market

The Gaz 66 trucks

Plush velvet interior

The rocky track ahead

The small community of Altyn Arashan below

Altyn Arashan is set in an alpine valley, the starting point for some longer multi-day hikes into the mountains and other valleys.  On our free day we stretched our legs hiking along the river and taking in the fresh alpine air and scenery.  Returning to the refuge for lunch the mountain weather turned, the temperature dropped and rain started to fall.  What better way to spend an afternoon than to sit in the hot springs.  Channeled into three small pools in huts of varying temperatures.  We bathed in the hot water and eased away our aches.  The brave dashing down to the snow melt river for a bracing splash every now and then before sinking back into the hot water.

Our mountain refuge

The facilities

Does my bum look big in this?

Tom & Anita warming up on the table tennis table

Gary & Jo-Ann hiking in the valley

Em, Si & Rogs

Lunch on china plates!

The weather closes in

Time for a hot spring - Jo-Ann & Sue

Tom, Hels, Em & Si braving the icy river

How many people can you fit in a hot spring?

It was time to pull out all the stops for the evening meal, having bought two legs of lamb in Karakol.  A camp roast is a feat of culinary logistics and a big group effort, fire lighting with damp and still green wood and making sure all the extras, gravy, roast potatoes, cauliflower, carrots, cabbage, onions and even roasted beetroot (phew!) were ready at the same time. We had left behind one useful box by accident, the one containing all our cups, plates, bowls, cutlery and knives.  Gary being a professional butcher the lamb was expertly deboned in record time with borrowed blunt knives.  The rest of the preparations with improvised chopping boards, pokje pot lids and selection of utensils.  We did however enjoy eating the feast on china plates and drinking out of real rather than metal cups for a change, borrowing them from the family who live at the refuge during the summer months. 

Roast lamb preparation

Trying to get the fire going

That'll do nicely

Some deft de-boning from Gary

Si & Choi

Sizzling potatoes

Yum yum

Merkin the resident cat (you may remember Merkin from the Kathmandu-Istanbul blog last year)

A game of Around the World

Em in her down booties

Described as another holiday within a holiday, we packed up our things the next morning and descended slowly and carefully back down the track that was muddied from the rain.  Shopping again at the well-stocked market in Karakol and lunching on the tasty cold noodle chilli dish they are known for.

Back down the hill

Karakol cold noodle dish

We were reunited with Penelope after our mini-break and headed off for another couple of bush camps in Djety Oguz national park.  The entrance guarded by red sandstone cliffs called the seven bulls after seven calves who grew big and strong in the fertile pastures. 

The Seven Bulls

Broken heart rock

Accessed by sturdy log bridges, we still walked across each one in case the weight of the truck proved too much.  The crew walking ahead at the end in the drizzle to check the rather saturated ground for a suitable camping spot, being stuck in the mud is not our favourite activity.  Surrounded by tall fir trees and alongside the glacial melt river we set up camp under ominous looking clouds and the rumble of distant thunder.  The rain did eventually arrive but didn’t dampen our spirits, or the alcoholic type.  Some wandered the next day to a waterfall and others ambled through the valley or made friends with the locals in their yurts.

Penelope lines up for a log bridge

Hmmm… we probably shouldn't camp here

A sunnier day for hiking

Spot the camp

Local Kyrgyz lady

Tom reclining with a cafe creme at the waterfall

Anita & Rogs at the waterfall

Maggie finds time to paint

Family day out

David joining some of the locals for a meal

Frisky donkeys run amok in camp

Shoo!

Leaving Diety Orgus

Stocking up with firewood on the way

Your licence please sir?

After our relaxing time there we drove to Kochkor where a luxury homestay/guesthouse awaited us with soft beds, hot showers (it was about time for one) and a Kyrgyz feast with delicious homemade jams.  Hels & Rogs put on a slideshow of the trip thus far to remind us where we’d been and all the amazing things we’d done together.

We sit writing our final words in a taxi on the way to Bishkek, having waved off the group to continue their journey through China in the capable hands of Simon & Emma.  It’s over and out from Rogs and Hels!

Farewell!